Vintage watches have a way of staying relevant long after trends fade. Some designs simply endure, not because they are loud or complicated, but because they feel right every time they hit the wrist.
For this list, we focused on the pieces collectors consistently come back to, debate, trade, and ultimately keep. These are the 20 best vintage watch icons, ranked not by hype, but by lasting impact and real collector respect.
#1: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 56175
Case: 33 mm | Weight: 130 g | Release: ~1990
This Royal Oak hardly needs an introduction, but the 33mm reference 56175 deserves a second look. It carries all the design codes Gérald Genta set in motion in 1972, just in a format that feels more discreet and surprisingly wearable today. Spend a little time with it, and you begin to appreciate how that integrated bracelet and sharp finishing still feel entirely modern.
#2: Universal Genève Polerouter
Case: 35 mm | Weight: 43 g | Release: ~1954
The Polerouter is one of those watches that quietly grows on you. Its elegant case proportions and beautifully balanced dial make it feel refined without ever becoming fragile. Add the historical relevance and that distinctive mid-century character, and you have a vintage piece that feels far more significant than its price might suggest.
#3: Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
Case: 40 mm | Weight: 105 g | Release: ~1980
There is something undeniably honest about a 5513. The matte dial, the symmetry of the no-date layout, and the straightforward tool-watch construction give it a sense of purpose that never feels forced. It’s the kind of Submariner that reminds you why this design became the benchmark for dive watches in the first place.
#4: Omega Speedmaster Ref. 3590.50
Case: 42 mm | Weight: 146 g | Release: ~1990
The Speedmaster Professional is one of those rare watches that lives up to its reputation. With hesalite crystal and tritium lume, this reference captures the classic Moonwatch spirit without feeling overly precious. On the wrist, it strikes that familiar balance between tool-watch toughness and everyday versatility.
#5: Cartier Tank Must
Case: 33.7 mm x 25.5 mm | Weight: 35 g | Release: 1977
The Tank Must shows how strong a design can be when it resists change. Its rectangular case and Roman numerals are instantly recognizable, yet never loud. Slip it under a cuff, and you quickly understand why this silhouette has endured for more than a century.
#6: Omega Seamaster 166.010
Case: 35 mm | Weight: 40 g | Release: ~1970
Vintage Seamasters have a quiet confidence about them. Their slim cases and applied markers give them just enough detail to remain interesting without overwhelming the design. They are the sort of watches you wear for yourself rather than for anyone else.
#7: Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601
Case: 36 mm | Weight: 86 g | Release: ~1970
A well-preserved Datejust 1601 has a charm that’s difficult to replicate today. The pie-pan dial and fluted bezel catch the light in a way that feels distinctly vintage without appearing outdated. It’s a watch that transitions effortlessly from casual to formal, which explains its enduring appeal.
#8: Heuer Carrera Ref. 2447
Case: 36 mm | Weight: 70 g | Release: ~1965
The Carrera 2447 embodies clarity of purpose. Its clean dial layout was designed for legibility at speed, yet it feels elegant rather than aggressive. On the wrist, the proportions are spot-on, reminding you how refined vintage chronographs once were.
#9: Heuer Carrera Ref. 2448N
Case: 36 mm | Weight: 70 g | Release: 1963
At first glance, the 2448N might look similar to other Carreras of the era. Spend time comparing details, though, and subtle dial nuances begin to reveal its distinct personality. It’s a reference that rewards collectors who enjoy diving deeper into the Heuer archive.
#10: Heuer Autavia “Viceroy” Ref. 1163
Case: 42 mm | Weight: 124 g | Original release: ~1970
The Autavia 1163V feels unapologetically 1970s in the best possible way. Its bold case and rotating bezel give it presence, while the automatic chronograph movement marked a technical step forward at the time. It’s a watch that doesn’t try to hide its sporting intentions.
#11: Seiko Speed-Timer Ref. 6139
Case: 41 mm | Weight: 110 g | Release: ~1969
The 6139 Speed-Timer captures the adventurous spirit of late-1960s chronograph development. Its colorful dial variations and automatic movement give it an energy that still feels fresh. For many collectors, it represents an accessible entry into genuinely historic chronograph territory.
#12: Seiko “Captain Willard” Ref. 6105-8110
Case: 44.5 mm | Weight: 92 g | Release: ~1972
The 6105 is unmistakable the moment it hits the wrist. That asymmetrical cushion case and protected crown give it a purposeful, almost utilitarian charm. Despite its size, it wears comfortably and carries a strong sense of adventure.
#13: Seiko Dolce 8J41 / 8J42
Case: 34 mm | Weight: 55 g | Original release: 1993
The 8J quartz models are often overlooked, yet they deserve attention. High-accuracy movements paired with thoughtful finishing show how seriously Seiko approached even its quartz offerings. It’s a reminder that precision and restraint can be just as compelling as mechanical complexity.
#14: Tudor Submariner Ref. 79090
Case: 39 mm | Weight: 98 g | Release: 1995
The Tudor Submariner 79090 carries familiar dive-watch cues but retains its own identity. Its proportions feel balanced, and the overall design has that honest tool-watch quality collectors appreciate. It offers a slightly different perspective on the classic Submariner formula.
#15: Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806
Case: 41 mm | Weight: 82 g | Release: 1963
The Navitimer 806 is wonderfully busy without feeling chaotic. Its slide rule bezel and densely printed dial speak directly to its aviation roots. Once you understand how it works, the watch becomes both a conversation piece and a functional instrument.
#16: Rolex Air-King Ref. 5500
Case: 34 mm | Weight: 64 g | Release: 1970
The Air-King 5500 proves that simplicity can be powerful. Clean dial layouts and classic Oyster construction give it a timeless presence. It’s a subtle entry into vintage Rolex collecting that rarely feels out of place.
#17: Hamilton H3 Military
Case: 33 mm | Weight: 55 g | Release: 1980
Military-issued Hamilton field watches are refreshingly straightforward. Clear Arabic numerals and hand-wound movements reinforce their utilitarian origins. They embody a form-follows-function philosophy that remains appealing decades later.
#18: Enicar Sherpa Super Dive 2342
Case: 40 mm | Weight: 78 g | Release: 1960
The Sherpa Super-Dive stands out with its compressor-style case and internal bezel system. Its design feels robust yet slightly unconventional, which adds to its charm. It’s a diver for collectors who enjoy stepping off the beaten path.
#19: Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox E855
Case: 37 mm | Weight: 60 g | Release: 1960
The Memovox E855 combines elegance with mechanical character. Its alarm complication adds an unexpected layer of interaction to an otherwise refined design. Few vintage watches manage to feel this sophisticated and playful at the same time.
#20: Vulcain Cricket
Case: 34 mm | Weight: 55 g | Original release: 1947
The Vulcain Cricket earned its reputation through its distinctive mechanical alarm. Its modest case size contrasts with the surprisingly assertive buzz it produces. It’s a vintage piece that feels both historically important and delightfully quirky.
The Ventrace Blog 